Place dried mushrooms in small pot and cover with water or chicken stock. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to low and steep.
Heat a heavy pot over medium to medium-high heat with 2 turns of the pan EVOO. When hot, add butter and melt into oil then add portabellas, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, and bay leaf. Sauté until tender, 15 minutes, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, stir in tomato paste and cook 1 minute. Stir in wine and reduce 2 minutes to evaporate. Add crushed or pureed tomatoes and stir. Reduce heat.